Looking out at my garden right now, things are looking pretty grey and gloomy. The hydrangeas, in particular, keep catching my eye with their faded blooms. But as much as I’m tempted to snip the old flower heads off come autumn, leaving them there until spring gives the new buds some protection and is one of the tricks I’ve learnt when it comes to what to do with hydrangeas in February.
While spring is just around the corner, keeping hydrangeas protected from the elements is still a must until the weather gets a little warmer. And can you prune hydrangeas in February is another question that all depends on which variety of hydrangea you are growing.
‘While February might feel like a time for staying indoors, it’s actually the ‘secret season’ for garden prep,’ says Shelley Davis, plant expert at Flying Flowers. ‘And when it comes to hydrangeas, there’s plenty you can be doing now to get them prepped for spring. Getting your tools out now to prune and protect your florals is the ultimate investment as, without this early season groundwork, your garden will miss out on that spectacular explosion of bright, fragrant blooms once the warm weather hits.’
1. Protect hydrangeas with mulch
‘For all species of hydrangeas, now is the time to apply a generous layer of mulch around the base,’ advises Julian Palphramand, Head of Plants at British Garden Centres. ‘We recommend well-rotted compost or manure, which works wonderfully. Adding mulch to hydrangeas feeds the soil and helps retain moisture, which these thirsty plants will appreciate come summer.’
Apply a thick layer (around 5-10cm) of mulch to protect your hydrangea plants, it will act like insulation and keep the root system from freezing and thawing repeatedly over the winter months.
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2. Wrap plants to keep them warm
‘Just like humans, hydrangeas need to be protected from the harsh weather that winter brings (also known as overwintering),’ advises Shelley. ‘During the autumn, many hydrangeas ‘set’ their flower buds, meaning they carry next year’s floral potential on their stems throughout the colder months. Without a bit of help, the slightest cold snap or frosty wind can dry out and kill the young buds, so taking a few minutes to wrap the plant up can make a huge difference.’
‘For hydrangea shrubs that are planted straight into the ground in borders you can tie some burlap around the stems, or if your plants are in containers and you want to overwinter hydrangeas in pots, simply move these to a sheltered spot away from drying winds. However, make sure you don’t move the pots anywhere too hot, such as inside with the heating, as the buds still need to remain dormant, so a cool garage or shed would provide perfect protection while still keeping the temperature level.’
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3. Water through the winter
‘When it comes to hydrangeas, the clue is in the name,’ adds Shelley. ‘Derived from the Greek words hydros (meaning water) and angos (meaning jar or vessel), hydrangeas are effectively nature’s ‘water jugs’. Even in February, when they look little more than a bundle of dormant sticks, those underground roots are still working and can easily fall victim to dehydrating winter winds so you do still need to water plants in winter.’
‘While they certainly don’t need a summer-sized drink, keeping them hydrated through the cold is the secret to ensuring they have the energy to deliver those show-stopping blooms come spring.’
4. Tailor your pruning strategy depending on the type of hydrangea
‘Think of February as the time to do an early ‘spring clean’ for your hydrangeas,’ advises Shelley. ‘While it feels odd cutting back flowers and stems, leaving what looks like a bare shrub, pruning will help the flowers bloom bigger and brighter once the weather warms up.’
‘When it comes to how to prune hydrangeas, it’s important to remember that not all species of hydrangea should be pruned the same. Hardier blooms, such as the paniculata or arborescens species, grow on new wood, meaning that February is the perfect time to cut back last year’s older stems. A top tip for these is to wait until buds start swelling ever so slightly so you can see exactly where to make your cut, just above the new sprout.’
Julian agrees: ‘Panicle hydrangeas (hydrangea paniculata) are different to other varieties of hydrangea. Late February is ideal for cutting them back hard, so prune down to about two or three buds from the base of last year’s growth. This encourages those spectacular, large flower heads in summer.’
5. Lightly prune mop-head and lace-cap hydrangeas
‘The hydrangea macrophylla (mop-cap) and hydrangea serarata (lace-cap) species are the complete opposite and bloom on old wood,’ advises Shelley. ‘So if you cut these all the way down in February, you won’t see a single flower this summer. For these, all you need to do is snip off old flower heads that have dried up over winter and have acted as protection for new buds.’
‘When it comes to when to prune hydrangeas, February is a good time to prune mop-head and lace-cap varieties to encourage vibrant growth and flowering in the coming season,’ agrees Charles Carr, Head of Nurseries at Hillier Garden Centres. ‘Cut the plant back to the next set of healthy buds below the faded flower head. If the hydrangea looks overgrown, remove a small number of main shoots at the base. Don’t forget that if it’s in a pot, it will need a feed to boost growth in the spring as the first leaves start to appear.’
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6. Don’t prune climbing and oakleaf hydrangeas
‘The lesser-seen climbing hydrangea and oakleaf hydrangea are the two you need to put the pruning shears down for!’ advises Shelley. ‘These species should only be pruned after they finish flowering in summer as, if cut back now, the flower buds that are already sitting at the tips of the branches will fail.’
How did your hydrangeas fare last spring and summer? What care tips work for you?
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