March is the very beginning of a busy time in the garden, with the first hint of spring arriving; all of a sudden, it feels like there’s so much to do after months of winter neglect.
Although it’s early days and it’s still chilly outside, there are some essential jobs you can be doing in March to help you get the best from your space in the coming months. And one of these is pruning.
Pruning when it’s still cold outside can feel like a task best suited to experienced gardeners and growing pros, but in fact, it is something we can all get the benefits from, and when you break it down, it doesn’t have to be difficult.
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How to prune in colder months
Gardening journalist and author Kim Stoddart explains what she loves about pruning in the colder months and what you should be doing at this time.
‘It can be lovely to do a little light pruning now as it’s a great excuse to get outside, in a non-pressured way, and enjoy the sights and sounds of the winter garden. The emphasis should be on ‘light’ when it comes to pruning at this time of year, when the garden is mainly still in slumber.’
‘Snip for aesthetics and practicality, or if you’d like to do some shaping, or take cuttings to further your plant collection, but do also take time to look around you and take in the wonder and wildlife in the winter garden.’
However, it’s all too easy to fall into a false sense of security when those milder days of early spring arrive, only for a late frost to swoop back in and catch both you and your freshly pruned plants off guard, so it’s critical to get pruning just right to avoid damage.
Emma O’Neill, head gardener at Garden Organic, explains the key elements of this pruning method.
‘The three rules of pruning are to remove dead, diseased and damaged growth along with any branches that may be crossing and rubbing against each other. Avoid over-pruning at this time of year – a maximum of 15% removal is about right – and don’t prune when a heavy frost is predicted, as fresh cuts will be prone to freeze and get thaw damage.’
Garden writer, Simon Akeroyd, explains why this – and keeping the purpose of what you are doing in mind – is important, ‘Probably the most important thing when pruning is to remember why you’re doing it. If it is to promote more fruit, then you’ll need to ensure you have plenty of horizontal branches, which usually produce more flowers or fruit and less of the upright vigorous ones.’
‘On the other hand, if you’re pruning for shape or to encourage new shoots to grow, then make sure your tree is going to look balanced when you’ve finished. Think about how it will look once those dormant buds grow in spring and summer, and which direction they’re going to be facing. Also, look at where the sun is, and try to ensure it will be able to reach all the branches on the tree or bush. And of course, remember to remove the dead and diseased branches first.’
Invest in the right tools for pruning
You know what you are doing and why, but what kit do you need to get the job done? Emma tells me that ‘the right tools are crucial. Use secateurs for thinner branches, loppers for bigger branches and a pruning saw for thick branches. Always ensure your tools are clean and sharp.’
‘Dull blades will make jagged cuts, and tear or crush the stems, which can lead to disease or die back. Ensure tools are cleaned between cuts, particularly with plants that may be prone to disease. Rubbing alcohol is ideal for this.’
As with any job in the garden, buy the best quality tools for the job you can comfortably afford, as these will last longer and stand up to life in the garden better than flimsier options. It is also important to take good care of your tools, so they can serve you for many years to come.
If you have your trusty tools to hand already, sharpen your secateurs and loppers to get a good, clean cut with this Niwaki sharpening stone, £15 on Amazon.
What you’ll need
When to start pruning in cold weather
Winter often feels long, and can cover an awful lot of different weather conditions, and early spring is no different. So, when should we start pruning if there are still winter conditions?
Simon says, ‘It is often said the best time to prune is when you remember. However, there are a few basic rules to follow. Probably the most important one is not to prune when it is extremely cold, as it can damage trees and shrubs, as well as being uncomfortable for you if you’re standing out in it for too long.’
‘Also, avoid pruning too early in winter, as if it is mild, it can encourage early shoots to form, which may then get damaged when it turns colder. Stone fruits such as plums, cherries and apricots shouldn’t be pruned until early spring or when the sap is rising.’
Emma adds that it can actually be really beneficial to prune in colder weather as it ‘reduces the activity of pests and pathogens, preventing problems on susceptible growth, and after leaf drop, it’s easier to see the plant’s structure.’
‘It also aids stronger growth in spring as the plant concentrates on regrowth in the areas required. Plants that are suitable for winter pruning include trees and shrubs such as apples, pears, cornus and willow, and climbers such as wisteria and climbing roses.’
Then, as we move into early spring, the rule is to prune anything that flowers on new growth now, like buddleia, hydrangea paniculata and arborencens, as cutting them back now can encourage stronger stems and more blooms. It’s also the perfect time to tackle all roses, along with fruit trees and bushes like apples, pears and blueberries while they’re still dormant.
What to avoid pruning in cold weather
Emma advises on the plants we shouldn’t be pruning now, ‘It’s important to get the timing right. Vines, birch and figs are prone to sap bleeding, particularly as it gets closer to spring when the sap flow increases, so these plants are best pruned in early winter.’
‘Most deciduous trees are better pruned once they are fully dormant in late winter to mid-February, but you should wait to prune conifers and evergreens until the growing season, from late spring.’
In early spring, it’s advised to hold off on anything that’s already gearing up to bloom. Emma explains that ‘spring flowering shrubs such as magnolias are best left until mid-summer, otherwise you’re likely to lose next year’s flowering buds. Cherries and plums do not respond well to winter pruning and are susceptible to silver leaf – a fungal disease – so prune these in the summer too.’
So, if you keep the basic principles in mind: remove dead, diseased, crossing and rubbing branches, use good-quality, sharp tools, and don’t get carried away, a beautiful, productive 2026 garden is but a few snips away!
You can also help your resident garden wildlife by creating shelter with stick piles or leaving hollow stems for insects to use as their home, so it really is a win-win situation!
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